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2011-2012 Fall/Winter Haute Couture Collection

The art of couture is the highest form of expression of Italian excellence. A hymn to sartorial creativity and noble materials the result of ongoing research that Italian creativity has rendered unique. Unique, like a Haute Couture garment, that embodies all of our history reinforcing a feeling of national identity. This then is Made in Italy Couture.

Looking to the Future

Sculptures and architecture. Rigidity and movement. Dynamism, upheaval, fixity, immobility, plasticity. Destructured garments. The 2011-2012 Fall-Winter collection for maison Gattinoni signed by Guillermo Mariotto is inspired by the art of Tony Cragg, the universe of 3D graffiti created by Peeta, photographs and ideograms by Roland Hicks, deafening colour and iconic, visionary images. The collection will be showcased at Pelanda, MACRO Testaccio museum, a contemporary multi-functional and multi-cultural space. “My collection – explains Guillermo Mariotto – is dedicated to art and artists because, more often than not, it is in times of crisis that one tends to appeal to the spirit, to religion, to beauty. And creativity is gratifying, often even fulfilling.” Guillermo Mariotto plays with shapes, colours and fabrics, he assembles ideas and then moulds them on mannequins. Imbuing his garments with a breath of energy, he seals a work in progress, always introducing something new, something different. Like a work of art, a sculpture. Perspectives change, the profound, highly personal reasons linked to a spectator’s view of things. Size 40 women but also sophisticated curvaceous ladies. Both in terms of flesh and spirit. ”Let’s start collecting contemporary art again – urges Guillermo Mariotto. When it comes down to brass tacks, our work is very similar to that of a sculptor or an architect. Rodin, Fuksas, Ben Swildens, Zaha Hadid. From iron pipes to a bustier. The creative director of maison Gattinoni then goes on to say, “From a mathematical equation to a sketch on paper. Amidst weights, measurements, lengths, transparencies and depths, clear-cut and abstract geometries. Shapes and volumes which subsequently explode in the finished garmen”. The garments designed by Guillermo Mariotto for Gattinoni’s 2011-2012 Fall-Winter collection can be defined as Couture architecture. Embroidered jump-suits. Platinum, metal, crystals, precious stones, quilted and sculpted mesh. Light, see-through fabrics. Unique pieces like his suits in napped, lasered, coated leather. Embroidery on ultra-light, streamlined fabrics. Voile shirts and chiffon skirts. The garments designed by Guillermo Mariotto feature exuberant lines where everything is taken to extremes. Upward elevation and fluid bodies like a work of art by Zaha Hadid. Above all, sophisticated simplicity. Mariotto makes reference to antique statuary, to classic art. Garments swathe bodies. Contemporary peplos. Seemingly minimalist forms. Blurred creations in a vortex of spirals and volumes. The designer pays tribute to Tony Cragg and his sculptural universe. Adaptable and versatile, adjustable and malleable, consisting of turns and bends. For his gran gala outfits, Mariotto draws inspiration from shapes and embroiders volumes that are ensconced within immense pleats. Naturally noir et blanc. A classic. Eternal. Maison Gattinoni’s creative director bets on lunar colours. Lamè fabrics shaded in tones of gold, platinum, silver, antique rose and pistachio green.
Black duchesse features leather intarsia and origami reminiscent of the armour worn by amazons. “Because – as explained by Mariotto – leather accessorizes a garment. It makes it stronger, but only in appearance. Although leather has personality it is ultra-fragile. This is the reason for its charm, its irrepressible appeal”. Bias, trapezoidal, pyramidal cuts for short cocktail dresses. Fabrics in coated, laminated, British tweed embellished by embroidery thus giving them an even more aristocratic air. Splashes of colour, 3D graffiti recreated on an opulent weft. Weaves and mesh working techniques, assembled as if inside a labyrinth-like mosaic will be maison Gattinoni’s signature features for the forthcoming autumn-winter season. “For strong, decisive women with provocative, creative personalities – adds Mariotto – Young women from good families who have had easy lives and who rebel against old-fashioned conformity, preferring to opt for the challenge of contemporary art. To have credibility and weight, not only within the confines of society”. In a post-industrial atmosphere, long evening gowns, featuring organza and leather fringes are showcased on the Pelanda catwalks for dark, uber-sophisticated ladies, artistic-ethnic fiery red trousers and formal evening wear featuring richly embroidered plastron. Jewellery of rare beauty obtained by assembling studs, crystals, multi-faceted metals, laser-engraved boule and velvets.
Embroidery once again takes centre stage on romantic bridal gowns featuring long veils in laminated fabrics, bare shoulders and corsets studded with stones. And in maison Gattinoni’s new collection, there was no way of not adding two explicit dedications to revered masters of art with a contemporary vision. A Zaha Hadid sandal-like sculpture and a Tony Cragg ankle boot closed by a talon cachè, together with jewelled bags featuring micro-sculptures in silver that embellish the swirling handles of the clutch, signed exclusively for maison Gattinoni by Gianni De Benedittis, futuroRemoto brand designer. A tribute is also paid to Duchamp, in his jewellery collection, the ready made Orinatoio ring and the Water ring in gold and diamonds, imbued with a strong playful, dreamlike component. A fashion show that serves as a counter-melody to the exhibition on the excellence of Italian creativity “Italian Uniqueness. Made-in-Italy and National Identity”, organized by Fondazione Valore-Italia, which takes place on the old Abattoir as well. Guillermo Mariotto, creative director of maison Gattinoni, gave the foundation the sculpture-dress created with the artist Federico Paris, which will be exposed at MACRO Testaccio and will later join the Permanent Exhibit of Made in Italy and Italian Design at Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana inside the Eur area of Rome.

Madame de Vinteul