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Gattinoni 2010-2011 Fall/Winter Haute Couture Collection

“… In testa ha una Loggia che risponde in detta Piazza, ornata di Colonne di mischio, con pitture dei più eccellenti Pittori che vivono, con due gran stantioni di qua, et di là per ogni banchetto da farsi l’estate”

From the Borghese Archive

The Grand Ball of the world

Reborn, reawakened, they have decided to welcome life, the life of the body and of the spirit. These are the jeune fille who have been invited to the Palace, to Gattinoni’s grand ball. Young, intelligent, endowed with cultured beauty and aristocratic sensuality. A sparkling future awaits them. A wish, a certainty. They are the daughters of globalization and of a multi-ethnic society, they play in a melting pot of cultures, traditions and religions. They are the protagonists of the collection that Guillermo Mariotto, creative director of maison Gattinoni, has designed for the 2010-2011 Fall-Winter season. A collection that will be presented in the magnificent hanging gardens of the Casino dell’Aurora Pallavicini.

A young woman who travels, who belongs to a world devoid of frontiers, who works, who knows how to be authoritative, to make concessions but also rebel, a woman who likes to make her own decisions. She is spirited and has a strong personality but, in addition to this she has a heart and a soul. Not only in the West. But also in Asia, in India and in Africa. “Societies change, our vision of the world changes – explains Guillermo Mariotto - We always have to be ready to accept innovation, changes”. Mariotto designs, creates and implements, sculpting sublime, unexpected metissage. He embroiders micro scarves with jet and sequins in relief, he transforms them into tunics and mini-dresses boasting an inebriating, though low-key elegance, he transforms chiné floral prints into dresses which are matchless in terms of tailoring and luxury. The magic of colour and of light like a painting by Renoir. Guillermo Mariotto’s creative exuberance is never ostentatious. On the contrary, it is always exalted also thanks to the creation of sophisticated gilets, a must-have item of the new collection. The work of chiselling amidst stones, chenille and, above all, crystals. Garments decorated with Maori tattoos, involving over two thousand and five hundred hours of labour, together with outfits made from micro feathers of lasered satin and embroidered around the edges. Optical effects, reminiscent of the majestic strutting of peacocks. For the forthcoming Fall-Winter, suit lines have changed. They have gigot sleeves, they are worn like armour, they are light and made from experimental fabrics. Textile experimentation conceived on the computer even on outfits featuring ancient African graffiti. Conversely, totems of tribal inspiration mould contemporary petite robe, with fringes made from marbles and jet while jackets boast an explosion of thick, ultra-thick sequins that resemble fur. Dove grey and ècru together with the real ones. Wolf, lynx and mongolia are used to trim collars and hats, but also turbans, which, for the forthcoming Fall-Winter season, Mariotto has envisaged sporting peaks with a dynamic, trendy air like that of today’s woman, poised to take flight. Towards new shores, new ports, always somewhere between the East and the West, a meld of sophisticated relationships. “A collection based on a multi-racial and multi-ethnic mood, Mariotto explains, with continuous reference to a corporeity that is not merely attraction but, above all, an in-depth awareness of one’s own being. For this reason, for the next Fall-Winter season, my women will probably not be wearing trousers. It is not necessary to dress them like men to make them women of power. If anything, I would suggest that they brandish new weapons, real weapons. True sex appeal is authenticity and truth, devoid of masks”. In conjunction with cape-dresses and sleeveless suits, bustiers make a comeback and are worn with shirts in taffeta, lace and tulle. They are embroidered, naturally around the edges only, and have an oriental, sophisticated air reminiscent of British courts during the reign of the Stuarts. Nothing is worn under the dresses. Only suede sandals and socks worked in relief with embroidery resembling hennè tattoos. Ethnic-chic. The ethnic look is also revisited and reinterpreted in jewellery especially made for this collection by Gianni De Benedittis, the designer of the futuroRemoto brand. Sophisticated objects in gold and silver, the seductive crafting of geometric forms obtained from the skilled use of original weaves and layers of strands, fixed, moveable, hanging pieces, ready to follow the vibrations of each movement of the body resulting in extraordinary kinetic effects. For the 2010-2011 Fall-Winter season, Mariotto bids farewell to trouser suits and re-launches femininity with an array of dresses and suits cinched at the waist by belts. They accentuate the silhouette and embrace the body to honour it. Just like the dresses for the grand ball at Palazzo Pallavicini. Wide though not overly voluminous skirts, in natural gold laminated jute, with applications of crystallised flannel, and micro claire de lune embroidery. Taffeta chiné skirts in shades of red, blue, indaco and orange, feature dramatic, sculptorial drapes. Together with blackcurrant and berry red, these are the colours for the forthcoming Fall-Winter season. Guillermo Mariotto considers them warm, full-bodied, vital, energetic colours. Colours that are emphasized in the short cashmere fabric coat trimmed with lynx fur and the blackcurrant dress with gloves and lining in the same colour. “A partially biographical collection – comments Mariotto – the result of my long trips around the world. Africa, India, the East and Rajasthan and my readings. Couture has been reborn thanks to a multiplicity of new ideas, new understandings, references and love affairs. A diversity that is, above all, a source of wealth and, not only insofar as fashion is concerned”. The haute couture by maison Gattinoni is also communication. It does not differ but explains, it does not condemn but invites us to reflect on current events. It is impossible not to be affected by the latest news headlines. Though seemingly demure as they walk down the runway wearing sublimely elegant duchesse gazar and tulle wedding gowns, made with over six hundred cuts and featuring bodices embroidered with thousands of micro-crystals, the Gattinoni brides are also capable of provoking and pressing charges. On the red carpet of the Casino dell’Aurora a dress printed with the pages of newspapers. The veil trimmed with a majestic pure white feather boa. This is also fashion.

Madame de Vinteul